Learn What DVD Players Are & How They
Work
How
DVDs were created
"DVD"
stands for Digital Video Disc (or Digital Versatile Disc as
the British seem to prefer). It's a disc that's 4 ¾ inches in
diameter, 1.2 mm thick, and can store 8.5 gigabytes of data on
one side (or the equivalent of about 6,800 floppy disks).
Back
in 1994, Sony and Phillips announced that they would jointly
develop a technology that would replace CDs for data storage.
The intention was also to develop a media format that could
replace VHS tapes and LaserDiscs as a way of storing movies
and delivering them to consumers. Meanwhile, Time-Warner and
Toshiba were working on their own competing technology (those
bastards!).
The
two teams unveiled their products within weeks of each other,
and the rush to market was on. Apple, Compaq, Fujitsu,
Hewlett-Packard, IBM, and Microsoft collectively feared that
another VHS-vs.-Beta war would ensue - these companies wanted
to use DVD technology for their computers, and the last thing
they wanted to worry about was adapting their product for two
different formats. So they made their own existences less
miserable by demanding that DVDs be made in only one format.
So
Sony, Phillips, Toshiba, Time-Warner and a handful of other
companies all got together and decided on a uniform standard
for all DVDs, making life easier for everybody. Fast forward
eight months later, and the assemblage of DVD developers were
still quibbling over how to produce a five-inch disk. But they
eventually got everything ironed out.
How
DVDs work
On
a CD, the data is read off the disc using an infrared laser; a
DVD works in the same way, but it uses a shorter wavelength
laser so that it can read smaller "pits" or little
pockets in which data is stored. Smaller pits mean more of
them on a disc, hence more information. DVDs also have not one
but two layers per side that can store information. And DVDs
can carry info on both sides (front and back) for a total of
four data-holding layers. So while a CD can fit about 20
minutes of compressed video, a DVD can hold about 135
minutes… per layer. That means that one double-layered
double-sided DVD can hold up to 9 hours of Steven Seagal. Will
wonders never cease?
If
that's not enough for you, check out these other benefits of
DVDs:
- DVDs
play with 540 lines of horizontal resolution. Compare that
to a VHS tape, which plays with 210 lines.
- DVDs
sample audio at higher rates (all that means is that the
sound is better).
- DVDs
can support multiple aspect ratios - that is,
movies can be viewed in their original wide-screen
versions (16:9 ratio) as opposed to their
formatted-to-fit-the-screen ones that TVs use (4:3 ratio).
- DVDs
can hold up to 32 language tracks.
- DVDs
can support split screens, director's cuts, alternate
endings, voiceovers, and any other interesting little
doodads.
And
as your reward for sitting through all that, you win a piece
of trivial information that you might actually be able to drop
into conversation some day:
Q:
What was the first movie put onto DVD?
A: The Beatles' A Hard Day's Night.
What Main Criteria Should Influence My DVD Player
Choice?
To make the most of DVD, you will need a television with at
least 500 lines of resolution. And even though you can use
your stereo receiver and speakers, without a Dolby Digital
surround sound system you will not be able to fully appreciate
the audio output delivered by your DVD player. For these
reasons, you might want to consider buying a moderately priced
DVD player and upgrading your receiver and speakers at the
same time.
When comparing DVD players, it is always important to consider
ease of use. Well-designed controls, a universal remote,
logical on-screen menus, and clear, concise instructions
should be a prerequisite. Beyond that, the major distinction
between DVD players comes down to subtle differences in the
audio and video output. If you're a film buff, a DVD player
that provides smooth slow motion and high speed viewing is a
must.
Video connections
Better video connections mean better picture quality. Most DVD
players have both composite video and S-video output jacks,
but if you have to make a choice between the two, S-video
jacks are better. Higher end DVD players come with component
video outputs. These are the best available. Remember, your TV
monitor needs to have "S" video and/or component
video inputs to use these features.
Determine How Much You Want To Spend
Ooh,
I want "high-carbon isolating feet" on my DVD
player! Well, are you willing to spend $5000? You're DVD-playing
needs might not require such a weirdly-named feature. So
before you go to the store, you should check out this guide
and figure how much dough you're willing to lose. There are
three ranges:
$300
Range
Three
hundred dollars is the cheapest that you should go. For that,
you'll get:
- a
picture that is clearly superior to any VCR
- scanning
- zoom
- preview
options
- a
variety of basic and gee-whiz type features
Coincidentally,
these are all great features to use when watching porn. The
sound options are limited relative to what the upper-end
models will have, but the picture will be outstanding. If
that's all that matters to you, then get this model.
500
Range
If
you want to make the jump to the next level of players, look
to spend around $500. For the extra cost you are likely to get
some additional video reproduction technology that:
- eliminates
any imperfections
- provides
an even sharper picture
- allows
you greater control over the image
But
most notable in this level of player are the sound output
options. Most of the mid-range players will have surround
sound and digital sound capabilities that their less-expensive
brethren lack.
$1000
and up
If
you still aren't satisfied with what you get, then expect to
break to bank. The upper end models are going to run from
$1000 on up. Heck, you can spend $5000 on a DVD player if you
want. But even for the mere $1000 models, you're still
treading into technophile territory:
- gold-plated
outputs
- THX
sound
- high-definition
ready
- vulcanic
visuo-sonic therptometers
OK,
we made that last one up. But it proves that these top-notch
DVD players are only for people obsessed with that kind of
thing. Furthermore, you won't see many of the benefits unless
the player is paired with other high-end components. A $1000
machine might not look better than a DVD player costing half
as much on an old-ish 15" TV. So our suggestion is to
forget these ultra-pricey players.
One
overarching suggestion is for you to stick with name brands.
Why? Well, if your DVD player breaks, a familiar name brand
(Sony, Pioneer, Panasonic, Phillips, Toshiba) will honor the
warrantee. Less familiar brands (Sonee, Pyoneer, Panasonik,
Fillips, Tushiba) probably aren't quite as reliable at
warrantee-honoring. If a name isn't familiar but you like the
player, then do some research and find some feedback from
other consumers who have the same machine-you should at least
look the player up in Consumer
Reports.
Choose Your Picture Quality
Maybe
this step should be titled "Relax," because you know
what? When you spend $300, you're going to get a great
picture. The $300 picture is obviously going to be inferior to
the $1300 one, but you'd have to be a hardcore videophile to
really notice.
The
difference between the low-end and the high-end players with
regard to picture is to some extent in how they handle what
are called "digital artifacts." Machines that
have some sort of digital video noise reduction system will
eliminate the "artifacts," or errors in the image
from digital imperfections. It's not actual "noise"
(as in sound) that is being reduced, but "noise" as
in unwanted stuff.
So
this is how we recommend you proceed: first, go to a store and
look at the picture quality. Whichever one you like best, buy.
After that, you can use the technical and non-technical
features as a tie-breakers:
- Every
DVD player has either 9 bit or 10 bit D/A processing. D/A
just means "digital to analog." This converts
the digital info into a signal that your TV can
understand, and as you could probably guess, 10 bit is
better than 9 bit. Even if that meant nothing to you, just
know that 10 is better than 9.
- Some
players might give you options such as "soft,"
"sharp" or "cinema" outputs. These
will give you subtle changes in the picture as it appears
on your TV.
- The
"oh, cool" features are important too. Does the
picture scan or play in slow-motion smoothly? Can you
focus on a part of the screen and zoom in on it while play
continues? Do you even care if your machine can do that?
Some of these additions will be of the "neat"
variety, but others you might find to be indispensable.
Play with the remote in the store and try to check out all
of these features.
- On
upper end machines, look for things like disc
stabilization. The truer the disc spins, the better the
picture's image. Also look for controls - horizontal and
vertical sharpness, black level, and gamma level - that
allow you to tinker specifically with the image itself.
Sharpness is self-explanatory, black and gamma levels give
control over color and light respectively.
- Finally,
don't forget to check out the controls both on the deck
and the remote. You're not going to read directions (don't
get defensive... nobody reads them), so make sure the
controls and access to the features you are going to use
are largely self-explanatory and simple to figure out.
There
are potentially dozens of things to take into consideration,
so don't forget to budget ahead of time. What you are willing
to spend will dictate to a large extent what options you have
to choose from. You may feel limited, but it might save you
having to worry about technical specs that you can't even
afford.
Choose Your Sound Quality
Okay,
it is Digital Video Disc, but the audio considerations
are important enough to warrant their own consideration. In
fact audio considerations are often as numerous - and possibly
more confusing - than visual ones.
First,
if you have your current VCR hooked up to your TV and that's
it-no home entertainment center or anything fancy - and you
are just going to swap a DVD player for your VCR, then
continue reading so that you can learn what you are missing
out on.
DTS
or Dolby Digital
When
you look at the audio specs, you are likely to encounter two
types :
- one
of the audio output types is called DTS (Digital
Theater Sound)
- the
other is called Dolby Digital (this might also be
called AC-3, but it is the same as Dolby Digital).
The
difference? DTS is newer and is capable of producing slightly
better sound, but both DTS and Dolby Digital are 5.1 channel
systems. What does that mean? It means the sound is processed
into 6 different paths. Makes perfect sense.
The
5 channels are center, front right, rear right, front left,
rear left, and the .1 stands for the subwoofer (that's really
low bass). This allows you to have a theater-like surround
sound with the center channel mimicking the dialogue emanating
from the screen and the other channels giving the sound from,
well, everyplace else.
Decoders
and compatibility
Next,
look to see if your player is "compatible" or has
"decoders." Some models are just
"compatible" with these sound systems and better
ones will have what are called "decoders" built
right in. Having decoders built in is better (and will, of
course, cost you more). If you want decoders, you are probably
looking at the $500 range as a minimum. Most $300 models will
at least be compatible with either DTS or Dolby Digital.
Decoders
actually separate the sound into those discreet 5.1 channels
and send them to the appropriate places. And those places are
6 separate output jacks on the back of the DVD player. So, if
you want the benefit of those separate channels, your receiver
must be equipped to handle them with 6 separate inputs. In
other words, they need to match.
That's
important because it means that if your DVD player is part of
your home entertainment center, then the sound will only be as
good as what your receiver is capable of. There is no reason
to plop down $1000 on a DVD player with onboard DTS decoders
if your receiver only has stereo left and right inputs.
Other
feature considerations
Here's
some good news: DVD players can also play music CDs. Some DVD
players will also handle what's called DVD Audio. These
are essentially CDs made on DVD discs to take advantage of
DVD's higher sampling rate (a "higher sampling rate"
is capable of superior sound). DVD Audio hasn't really caught
on, but know that it's out there.
Finally,
for those of you who have ever thought, "Gee, my living
room would make a great Japanese bar," many DVD players
offer karaoke capabilities.
Hook It Up
You
bought yourself a beautiful DVD player. Now you have to hook
the thing up. That is, you do if you want to actually watch
something from it anyway. It's amazing how many people have
difficulty with this kind of stuff, but then again, 12 people
found O.J. innocent.
Having
read the audio
section you're likely to realize that your DVD player
might have 6 output jacks for sound alone! Yep, but let's
start simple and work our way up to 6 or more.
If
you are just going to hook up your DVD player straight to your
TV, then you can plug one end of a connector into the standard
"video out" connection - that's the round and
probably yellow-colored jack - on back of your DVD player and
connect the other end to the "video in" on the back
your TV. Do the same with the audio connections. The only
difference is that audio will have both a left and a right
connection on the back of your DVD player and TV. That's it.
Start watching porn.
For
a clearer picture you might want to use the S-Video output.
S-Video is a round connection with a funky looking set of pins
inside. If you decide to try S-Video, just hook one end of the
S-Video cable into the DVD player and the other end into the
TV. Easy. (But you should know that not all TVs have S-Video
outlets, though most new ones do.)